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General
The following comments are based upon just two visits to the 'tolerated'
nude beaches at Culver and Blackgang on the Isle of Wight. These visits
were made very early in the season (late April 2004) but nevertheless the
forecast mid-day temperatures were approaching 20 deg. C.
Both Blackgang and Culver are pebble beaches under a cliff face but even at that point of commonality they differ. Sadly, Culver disappointed. In contrast, Blackgang surprised.
Culver Beach
Culver beach is under Culver Cliff which is the white chalk cliff area that is clearly visible looking East from the sea front beach at Sandown. However, at the time of our visit it was high tide. With little or no hard sand exposed, the walk along the remaining pebble bank took considerably longer than the 10 minutes claimed in the web site directions. One big advantage of a pebble beach under white cliffs is that this combination both stores and reflects the warmth of the Sun and we spent a warm 3+ hours there. Fortunately it was a calm day so there was no need to erect any form of wind break. This would not have been easy to do because the pebbles are large and uneven in size. A brief excursion into the sea (very cold in April!) confirmed good hard even sand underfoot. The author of the web site rates Culver beach at 10/10 for access and 9/10 overall. Perhaps a rather over-generous view to which we might have agreed had we been there at a more favourable state of the tide or later in the year when a swim would have been a more attractive proposition.
Blackgang Chine
The first problem with beach is finding it! Had we not taken the trouble to print out the directions to be found on the Valerian Sun Club pages we would have had little hope of success. I will not attempt to repeat their excellent instructions other than to say that the parking area (the end of 'Old Blackgang Road') is also the one used for visitors to the down-land area behind St Catherine's Point (National Trust). The view from the parking area is spectacular but the beach which is downhill and to the right (West) cannot be seen. As a pure act of faith, set off in that general direction and, where the green turf deteriorates to rough scrub, hope to find a style. In the opinion of this not too unfit 70-year-old, from here on the path is not for the faint-hearted (neither literally nor metaphorically). In places it is very steep and you will already be aware that warning signs of "active land-slip area" are clearly there for good reason. We saw clear evidence of recent major falls but nevertheless someone had been active painting white arrows on trees and cutting new steps. In a couple of places a few yards of knotted rope have been strategically placed - without them neither of us would have been able to complete either the descent nor the climb back afterwards. Underfoot in many places is what I can only describe as mud-stone - a kind of blue black clay, hard enough and firm enough when dry but glutinous, black and slippery when wet. Choose your way carefully and avoid any signs of wet ground where standing water may have turned the clay to the texture of quick-sand. I failed to do this and went in up to my knees and had the devil's own job afterwards washing the legs of my jeans in heavy surf while keeping the rest dry! Near the end one can hear the surf but not see the sea until the last minute. The last ten yards are an easy but undignified scramble down a tumble of harder rocks. The beach itself is fine pebbles - pea size to pearl barley size - easier to walk on than big pebbles and much more comfortable to lie on given a large towel between you and it. We had no need to try, but this fine shingle would probably support a wind break.
In a couple of places, fresh water trickles down the cliff face and these make ideal places to keep water bottles cool. Was it worth it? In the words of the web site, "... a bit of a hike to get too, no facilities, no ice-cream salesmen, no amusements, no traffic, no stress, no worries, no clothes..."
Update: August 2004
"As Blackgang is getting harder and harder to get down to, more people are now using Sheppard Chine, by Atherfield Point Holiday park, Near Coastguard Cottages.
Park on the road side, or in Holiday caentre (small fee payable - one pound) and procede down the path to the beach, turn left and walk about 150yds. The Beach is sand and fine shingle, lots of places to hide out of the wind if there is any. The only people who walk past are normally fisherman walking round the point to wards whale chine. Its a nice beach and getting busier and busier with nudists."
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